What is Polotsk living for today, what are its residents thinking and dreaming about?
The pandemic has closed the door to Europe for tourists. Barriers at borders, tests, quarantine... Few manage to overcome all the hurdles and obstacles. And the pleasure from such a trip is dubious.
It is 556 kilometers from Moscow to the center of Europe, and only 192 kilometers from the Belarusian capital.
However, for the correspondents of "Soyuz", who decided to visit the very center of Europe, all these barriers were nothing, and they didn't even need a Schengen visa. They simply got into a car in Vitebsk and, in just over an hour, arrived at their destination with the wind in their sails. Here it is – ancient Polotsk, the officially established geographical center of Europe. What is this museum-city living by today, what are its residents thinking and dreaming about? Let's take a walk on a slightly frosty February day through the streets of one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
– Polotsk was founded by the Krivichi in 862 at the confluence of the Western Dvina and Polota rivers, – says **Irina Vodneva, head of the branch of the National Polotsk Historical and Cultural Museum-Reserve**. – And this sign was installed in 2008, after the exact location of the geographical center of Europe was proven using special computer programs and calculations. Russian scientists, by the way, confirmed the conclusions of their Belarusian colleagues at that time and agreed with their methodology for establishing the boundaries of the Old World.
Today, hundreds of tourists visit the memorial sign, which has become one of the city's prominent landmarks, and newlyweds come here. Anyone can get a special certificate – proof of their stay in the heart of Europe.
And here is a real gem and mystery – a 12th-century church on the territory of the Saint Euphrosyne Monastery. **Alexey Kots, a lecturer at the Department of History and Tourism of PSU**, shows the unique ancient paintings on its walls:
— There are ten churches in Polotsk. But only this one, the Transfiguration Church, remained unstudied until recently. The attention of the brightest minds in Belarusian and Russian archaeology is focused on it. To uncover the ancient murals, special technologies had to be used. During the excavations, it was established that the original dimensions of the temple were much larger. Unique frescoes were found on the site of the destroyed parts of the building. We did not have experience working with such monuments of ancient Russian architecture, so we invited consultants from the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg.
The joint work of Belarusian and Russian archaeologists and restorers in Polotsk is already a tradition. Dozens of textbooks, scientific papers, and monographs have been written. After all, the history of Polotsk, as noted by Russian scientists, is of great importance not only for Belarus but also for the history of Ancient Rus', Eastern Europe, and the history of European culture as a whole.
**Nikolai Sushkov**, whom we decided to visitto visit, — an amazing person. A veteran of the Great Patriotic War. A native of Russia. Considers Polotsk his second homeland. Nikolai Filippovich recently turned 95, but he still engages in sports, actively participates in the public life of the city, and closely follows political events.
— I am concerned about the news of unrest both in Minsk and in Moscow, — the retired lieutenant colonel does not hide. — I was born near Voronezh. As a platoon commander of a tank landing force, I liberated Ukraine, Poland, and Czechoslovakia. I was seriously wounded near Berlin. I met Victory in Prague. After the war, I served in Ukraine, as part of the group of forces for about eight years — in Germany. Then — in a tank division in Polotsk. I taught schoolchildren here for 30 years. A strong land. Now I can say with full right that patriotism has no territorial borders or nationalities. A person who knows the true value of concepts such as honor, conscience, and duty will never become a traitor. He is able to understand what is good and what is bad...
We are going to the new parents: six months ago, the family of Russian **Oleg Kurilov** and his Belarusian wife **Olga** had triplets.
While little Sasha, Andryusha, and Kolya are resting, the parents share their initial experiences:
— We thought it would be harder, but the state supports us greatly: family capital, the opportunity to obtain housing on preferential terms, free meals for the babies, and a monthly allowance of almost 1.5 thousand rubles. Even nanny services are paid for.from the budget.
— So there's no point in protesting? — I ask a provocative question.
— What protests? — Oleg Kurilov exclaims. — I work at JSC "Polotsk-Steklovolokno". A stable enterprise, a decent salary. What is there to strike about?..
This is what the ancient and eternally young center of Europe is like, where beautiful, caring people live, who love their city and wish it well. And they are always happy to welcome guests.
POLOTSK IN NUMBERS AND FACTS
Chairman of the Polotsk District Executive Committee Igor Markovich:
— Almost 85 thousand people live in the city. Over a thousand enterprises of various forms of ownership operate, including about fifty created with foreign capital. Private initiative is well developed — Polotsk has been awarded the title of the best city for business. Our industrialists focus on new technologies and the production of innovative products. About 70 percent of goods are exported to 56 countries. In the last year alone, over 180 million rubles have been invested in the economy of the Polotsk region. All this attracts young people to us. We are actively building housing, kindergartens, and schools.
However, for the correspondents of "Soyuz", who decided to visit the very center of Europe, all these barriers were nothing, and they didn't even need a Schengen visa. They simply got into a car in Vitebsk and, in just over an hour, arrived at their destination with the wind in their sails. Here it is – ancient Polotsk, the officially established geographical center of Europe. What is this museum-city living by today, what are its residents thinking and dreaming about? Let's take a walk on a slightly frosty February day through the streets of one of the most beautiful cities in the world.
What does the wind rose smell like?
Any passerby will tell you how to get to the "very center". Go straight along Fr. Skorina Avenue without turning. And here is the sign: "Polotsk – Geographical Center of Europe". The inscription is in five languages. At the base of the sculptural composition is an image of a wind rose with cardinal directions indicated. The next level shows the Northern Hemisphere of the Earth. Here, a map of Europe is displayed, and the center is marked. Symbolic arcs of meridians are decorated with the coat of arms of Polotsk – a three-masted ship that overcame many obstacles on the way from the Varangians to the Greeks.– Polotsk was founded by the Krivichi in 862 at the confluence of the Western Dvina and Polota rivers, – says **Irina Vodneva, head of the branch of the National Polotsk Historical and Cultural Museum-Reserve**. – And this sign was installed in 2008, after the exact location of the geographical center of Europe was proven using special computer programs and calculations. Russian scientists, by the way, confirmed the conclusions of their Belarusian colleagues at that time and agreed with their methodology for establishing the boundaries of the Old World.
Today, hundreds of tourists visit the memorial sign, which has become one of the city's prominent landmarks, and newlyweds come here. Anyone can get a special certificate – proof of their stay in the heart of Europe.
Don't hurry, look around
On this land, where in ancient timeswas the Principality of Polotsk, about 130 unique monuments of history, culture, and architecture have been preserved. Time flows here with a special, unhurried rhythm, so let's enjoy all this beauty without haste. Here is the majestic Saint Sophia Cathedral and the Boris Stone near its walls. The Upper Castle-Reserve. And then there is the unique building of the former Jesuit Collegium, the world's only monument to the letter "ў", the museums of Belarusian book printing, Symeon of Polotsk, and medieval knighthood. The monument to Francysk Skaryna (he was also born here), monuments to princes Andrei Olgerdovich, Vseslav the Sorcerer, and heroes of the Second World War – 23 guardsmen who held a bridgehead at the cost of their lives...And here is a real gem and mystery – a 12th-century church on the territory of the Saint Euphrosyne Monastery. **Alexey Kots, a lecturer at the Department of History and Tourism of PSU**, shows the unique ancient paintings on its walls:
— There are ten churches in Polotsk. But only this one, the Transfiguration Church, remained unstudied until recently. The attention of the brightest minds in Belarusian and Russian archaeology is focused on it. To uncover the ancient murals, special technologies had to be used. During the excavations, it was established that the original dimensions of the temple were much larger. Unique frescoes were found on the site of the destroyed parts of the building. We did not have experience working with such monuments of ancient Russian architecture, so we invited consultants from the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg.
The joint work of Belarusian and Russian archaeologists and restorers in Polotsk is already a tradition. Dozens of textbooks, scientific papers, and monographs have been written. After all, the history of Polotsk, as noted by Russian scientists, is of great importance not only for Belarus but also for the history of Ancient Rus', Eastern Europe, and the history of European culture as a whole.
Priceless Traditions
From the conversations, smiling faces, and the very atmosphere of the city, you immediately feel that Polotsk is one big and friendly family. And an international one at that. Where traditions of peace and mutual understanding are passed down through generations. Today, Belarusians, Russians, Azerbaijanis, Germans, French, Poles, and Balts live here...**Nikolai Sushkov**, whom we decided to visitto visit, — an amazing person. A veteran of the Great Patriotic War. A native of Russia. Considers Polotsk his second homeland. Nikolai Filippovich recently turned 95, but he still engages in sports, actively participates in the public life of the city, and closely follows political events.
— I am concerned about the news of unrest both in Minsk and in Moscow, — the retired lieutenant colonel does not hide. — I was born near Voronezh. As a platoon commander of a tank landing force, I liberated Ukraine, Poland, and Czechoslovakia. I was seriously wounded near Berlin. I met Victory in Prague. After the war, I served in Ukraine, as part of the group of forces for about eight years — in Germany. Then — in a tank division in Polotsk. I taught schoolchildren here for 30 years. A strong land. Now I can say with full right that patriotism has no territorial borders or nationalities. A person who knows the true value of concepts such as honor, conscience, and duty will never become a traitor. He is able to understand what is good and what is bad...
I will be forever young
A significant event in Polotsk: Oleg Kurilov, a Russian, and his Belarusian wife Olga had triplets — Sasha, Andryusha, and Kolya. Every fourth resident of the city is between 14 and 31 years old. Therefore, special attention is paid to young people here, with an emphasis on innovative, creative, and purely authorial initiatives. The Simeon of Polotsk Theater School has been opened, and dozens of projects in sports, education, and culture are underway. Students from Russia study at the local state university, and soon the Polotsk Cadet Corps will also welcome young Russians. This initiative is supported at the level of the Union State, and a special program is being developed.We are going to the new parents: six months ago, the family of Russian **Oleg Kurilov** and his Belarusian wife **Olga** had triplets.
While little Sasha, Andryusha, and Kolya are resting, the parents share their initial experiences:
— We thought it would be harder, but the state supports us greatly: family capital, the opportunity to obtain housing on preferential terms, free meals for the babies, and a monthly allowance of almost 1.5 thousand rubles. Even nanny services are paid for.from the budget.
— So there's no point in protesting? — I ask a provocative question.
— What protests? — Oleg Kurilov exclaims. — I work at JSC "Polotsk-Steklovolokno". A stable enterprise, a decent salary. What is there to strike about?..
This is what the ancient and eternally young center of Europe is like, where beautiful, caring people live, who love their city and wish it well. And they are always happy to welcome guests.
POLOTSK IN NUMBERS AND FACTS
Chairman of the Polotsk District Executive Committee Igor Markovich:
— Almost 85 thousand people live in the city. Over a thousand enterprises of various forms of ownership operate, including about fifty created with foreign capital. Private initiative is well developed — Polotsk has been awarded the title of the best city for business. Our industrialists focus on new technologies and the production of innovative products. About 70 percent of goods are exported to 56 countries. In the last year alone, over 180 million rubles have been invested in the economy of the Polotsk region. All this attracts young people to us. We are actively building housing, kindergartens, and schools.